Kakadu

Kakadu time, we were pretty excited to say the least.  We drove through Pine Creek, picked up our Kakadu pass and continued onto Kakadu National Park.  We stopped at the ranger station/info centre at the southern end for some info on where to camp.  There was not much, its an un maned building with a few old signs.  We read on their board that Gunlom was shut due to fires, we were really disappointed as we had been told how cool the infinity pool was.  We decided to drive on further north and set up at a camp ground called Mardugal, just south of Coolinda.  Its run by this lovely woman, who gave us lots of information and was very helpful.
We took the kids to the cultural centre and had a good look around.  I found it interesting, Mark found it very interesting and the kids enjoyed being out of the heat.   Then we went for a drive to the South Alligator River where there's a board walk and its also where the cruises go from.  We saw a couple of birds and crocs.  Then we got a bit hot and drove to Coolinda and had a swim in the pool.

That night when we got home we went to the first of many ranger talks and slide shows.  We met the wonderful Ranger Annie who spoke so well and informatively about the park.  She gave us lots of good ideas and pointers about what to see and do.  The free ranger talks were such a important part of our time in the park and we are so thankful they are provided.

We were up bright and early the next morning for the sunrise Yellow water cruise.  It was a fabulous morning, we all really enjoyed it.  When you first get on the river there was a mist hanging about then the sun rose and all the lovely creatures came out.  The bird life was pretty amazing, I couldn't get over all the different types there were.  We were very lucky to have a really nice out bloke as our guide and he was really knowledgeable about the bird species.  We saw quite a few crocs, the kids had fun spotting for them.  Then we went up river and saw a really huge estuarine croc, and boy was he big.  I'm sure he was friendly!  The river up stream was also really pretty with lots of dense green foliage everywhere and some amazing pink water lilies.  I had such a great day, especially taking a lot of photos.  I think Jake's favourite part was the buffet breakfast after.

Drying his wings

The Kingfishers were amazing

Sorry I kinda got obsessed about taking photos and then couldn't decide which ones to include!

When we got to camp the day before we were told that Gunlom was actually open, but typical the rangers hadn't got round to changing the signs!  So we drove back down south to check out Gunlom.  The water hole and waterfall were nice but not amazing, especially after the crap road on the way in.   We stood and looked at the steep climb to the top of the water fall, debating whether to do it in the heat.  But we had been told by so many people to go, so off we went.  Yep the walk was steep but it didn't take long and it was worth it when we got there.  We spent a lovely hour or more swimming through the small gorge, scrambling over a few rocks and then enjoying the view from the infinity pool.  One of our favourite places at Kakadu.

We had heard from a secret source about a quiet spot that isn't on the tourist maps.  We found it pretty easily and it was a really pretty spot, a small waterhole and waterfall after a short walk in through a forest filled with butterfly's.  I'd never seen so many in one place, I grabbed my camera in excitement, but alas it was flat!!  Jake was still finishing of his lunch and 'accidentally' dropped some of the bread into the water and suddenly all these fish swam from out of no where.  Entertained us for a while.

It was getting late in the day but we couldn't miss out on going to Maguk.  We walked for about 15mins and found some people swimming in the river.  I wanted to stop here but Mark soldiered on, lucky we followed him otherwise we would have missed an amazing spot.  Its a large waterhole with a large waterfall.  We had such fun swimming around and enjoying ourselves.  Then Mark walked up to the top of the waterfall via an old track.  The kids were a bit tired and over it by them so I stayed behind with them.  Apparently its pretty magic at the top, oh well I'll get there next time.  Another of our favourite spots at Kakadu.

Twin and Jim Jim were next on our plans. We'd been told that they were almost dried up but figured we'd give it a go anyway.  Its a bit of a drive down to Twin Falls, and a water crossing.  Then a short walk to a boat ride.  The boat ride was short but lovely, a really pretty view.  The kids were entertained as the guide was a dead ringer for my little brother.  We then walked along the gorge into Twin Falls, and yep it was basically dried up.  It was 'running' but not enough for a decent photo.  From there we drove back to Jim Jim.  Its a bit of a hike in and a touch of rock scrambling, then Jake fell and smacked his knee.  We ended up swimming from 'the beach' climbing a few rocks and then into the waterhole instead of doing the walk around to it.  The water was cold and it was surprisingly further than we thought to the other side.  Both these places were lovely spots but would be magic at the start of the season when the waterfalls are flowing.  We watched a video of them both in flow during the wet from a helicopter, now that's a sight!!

The big flowing falls!

Croc danger

Jim Jim Falls

We had gotten messages that our friends could possibly be arriving to Mardugal to camp. Our policy is not to tell the kids in advance that they may see their friends, as if it doesn't happen we've had disappointed kids. We arrived back to camp and there Big Bertha was, the kids were very pleased. We had a lovely evening hanging out and chatting to the Goughs.

We left Mardugal and went to Jabiru to the caravan park for some much needed air con!  We pulled up next to our mates the Hardfurms and relaxed and enjoyed ourselves.  Seeing we hadn't been to an info centre yet at Kakadu we drove out the road to the main info centre.  Its got a great little informative area and you can watch a DVD of the Kakadu series from the ABC, which we enjoyed.  The ladies working at the centre were looking after a baby wallaby and the kids had a little pat.

We went to Ranger Annie's walk and talk at Nourlangie rock art.  It was a good time to do it, lots of families around.  Even Annie said "don't you kids know its not school holidays".  She said she loves it though, as we were in her class room.  And I totally agree with this, we all learnt so much during our time here.  Jake especially is enthralled in all the indigenous history and dream time stories.  The rock art in some of these places is amazing, so detailed and bold.  Considering how old some of it is, its really a testament to the aboriginal artist of the pasts that its such quality work.

We went for  a walk around Anbangbang Billabong, didn't see any crocs but saw a few birds.  Was pretty hot, but an OK flat walk.

Seeing we were in the area we thought we'd check out the rock art at Nanguluwur.  Mark particularly enjoyed this area as it had a nice picture of a ship.  We thought it was only a km or so in but we soon realised it was a little longer! Oops ended up bring very hot, it was the middle of the day!! Another lesson learnt, kids don't like walking in the heat!!!

With much excitement we realised we timed being at Jabiru for the Mahbilil Wind festival. We certainly weren't disappointed, one of my favourite days in a long time. We spent a couple of hours walking around, watching the indigenous art displays, looking at the art work and seeing them set up for the evening. Charlotte enjoyed sitting learning to weave with the girls and some aboriginal ladies.  We went and had a picnic lunch from the food stalls. We met up with the Hardfurms who were working and of course the kids got tattoos, thanks guys. We sat and chatted to the Goughs, before saying farewell to them.  It then got a bit hot do we went home for a couple of hours of air con and a swim in the pool.

We arrived back in time for tea and to try the free food. The community organised a cooking competition and a hungi (buffalo) and the food was shared with everyone. We really enjoyed watching them set up and cook in the hungi. The Magpie  Goose was delicious ( just as ranger Annie said it would be), we weren't as keen on the buffalo. 

Then the nights entertainment began and we had such a great time. We had watched the You Tube clip of the Chooki Dancers (Djuki Mala) doing the Greek Zorba, like a lot of other people and were pretty excited to see them. It was such a fabulous show, we absolutely loved it. I sat next to an older indigenous lady ( who may have had a few drinks) who was delightfully excited and kept jumping about in joy as the boys danced. There were a group of young indigenous girls in front of us and I got chatting to them. They very proudly pointed out their brothers in the group, which was lovely. I watched Mark sitting in a sea of children, laughing until he had tears, with the biggest grin on his face. It's a moment I won't forget! Watching all the locals dancing and getting into it, was great. Djuki Mala put on a fantastic dance show of traditional indigenous dances and modern dances taking off the Zorba, Bollywood and even Michael Jackson.

There was also a kids circus performance and fire twirling, which we all enjoyed. Then the son of Yothu Yindis front man who has a band called Eastern Journey played. The music was excellent, but the kids were tired.  The kids had ran around and had such a blast. Whilst Cam and Ton worked hard all day. So I took all four kids home, I left Mark watching music and the other guys working. It was such a great day, as you can probably tell we enjoyed ourselves immensely.

Another of my favourite times at Kakadu was when we went to Arnheim Land with Ton and Jordan. After getting our day permits we drove across Cahills Crossing and into Arnheim Land heading towards Oenpelli. The girls were hilarious, they started singing 'we've been to Arnheim Land' a little song they made up. 

We drove into a typical indigenous community of this area to the Injalak art centre. The place looked closed but a couple of indigenous blokes pointed to the door and said to go in. Inside we found a fanatic shop full of some incredible art work. We spent ages looking at the art and chatting to the managers.  Then we went outside to watch the artists work. There was on guy in particular who affected me. I'd seem him inside, he looked and sounded very unwell, overweight and with shocking breathing. I'd wondered who the bloke was, thinking a few negative thoughts. Then later I went outside and he was doing the most incredible dainty painting. His skills were amazing, the fine painting he was doing just impressed me. Then I realised I'd judged this guy as an unwell indigenous bloke but he was so much more. Lesson learnt, wish I'd been able to buy the finished painting. I did find a few 'little' pieces to purchase.

We stopped and took a few photos on the way back. This area is incredibly beautiful and we would have loved to explore more but alas our permit didn't allows us to. We drove back through Arnheim Land listening to Eastern Journey, as Mark had downloaded their song of course!

Mark having a chat and debating 80's music

We drove back to Cahills Crossing a little worried about crossing it at high tide. Lucky for us the tide wasn't a high high tide. We started to cross but then a croc crawled across the causeway in front of us. We stopped to let it cross, with the locals in the car behind us beeping the horn getting annoyed at us. Think it amused all the people at the look out watching. We met up with Cam and the boys and watched the crocs fishing. Was crazy watching how they stick their arms up to catch the fish. We counted 15 crocs in one small area of the river feeding. No swimming there for us!

best not leave your car unattended for too long!

fishing

Then we drove to the Border Store and had a delicious Thai meal for lunch. We hung about and waited to watch a weaving display. It was run by an indigenous lady called Anita. The demonstration started late, allowed for much last minute organising, a stop at the shop for a snack ( and getting their Magpie Goose for tea), a chat to some friends nearby and then they started. Very typical, gotta love the relaxed nature around here. It was so so hot that day but the ladies built a camp fire to boil the dyes. Then sat and tried to teach us to strip the pandanus leaf. Much to all of our frustration we couldn't do it, except Cam who seemed to master it!! They were lovely ladies who were happy to chat and explain everything to us.

After we left the Border Store we went to Ubir to see the rock art and the view. This is a great area and a must see of Kakadu. The Ranger talk had been cancelled do we just wandered around ourselves, lucky we had our guide Cam to educate us!! Once again the rock art was fabulous, we especially like the Tassie Tiger picture, as it's an animal close to our hearts! We then walked up to the look out and what an incredible view. So so lovely.

At the caravan park there is a fabulous pool which we used quite a bit. Nice to cool off at the end of a hot hot day. There's a few trees around, including one of my favourites the Frangipani.

We left Kakadu with the Hardfirms and stopped by the wetlands bird hide for a look. There were quite a few birds but most of them were too far for me to grab a picture of.

As you can see by the immense blog I've just completed we did a lot whilst we were at Kakadu. I have absolutely no idea why people would say Kak a don't. We found it an incredibly beautiful and interesting place and look forward to coming again just after the wet next time.